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How To Repair Charging Problem In Samsung Smart Phone

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  • How To Repair Charging Problem In Samsung Smart Phone


    Yesterday I got a PCB from a customer who told me does something is wrong with this because the phone will not charge.I took the job and checked what type of PCB it is, made visual inspection and repaired. So simple was that. The PCB is a sort of board from a cell phone Samsung GT-I9301L.

    Actually I put the board under my digital microscope. It is a very complex board with SMD parts on it. SMD is standing for Surface Mounted Devices, that means the parts are almost all of them are soldered on the surface of the PCB, not a through hole soldering technique.


    I realized very fast the problem, two broken legs on the charging connector. But here we come to the simple but big problem.

    Many of technicians would say, what about of garbage I say. Just let solder that two legs back and everything is fine. That would be easy and fine, but after an ďeasyĒ leg soldering the whole pcb can result in a bad pcb and a more expensive repair cost. And then we have a very nice problem done by the technicians.

    So, here is what is going on:

    Ė we have two legs to solder

    Ė one of that two lags is connected to the ground ( here comes to the problem )

    You have a small leg with a maybe 0.5mm diameter and a soldering iron tip of max diameter 0.5-1mm.

    But you have the whole board as a cupper het sink. Whatever heat you set up to the soldering station, the small surface of the tip of the soldering iron is not enough to overcome the cupper surface of the gnd and canít melt the soldering wire.

    Maybe you can get some sort of melting but that would be a very bad join and I assume it would brick in a short period of time.

    Most of technicians make two big mistakes.
    1. When they realize ( after 30min of trying ) does they canít make a nice and good solder because of the mentioned problem, they take another solder gun with a bigger soldering tip and transfer more heat to the leg.

    Yes, thatís nice. But I saw in several cases shorted connectors, and a molted connector after that kind of repairing. Because the inner side of connector is some sort of plastic. And most of the connectors are some sort of plastic where are the pins fixed.
    1. They take the hot air soldering gun and try to reheat the whole connector.

    That results in most case in a damaged connector and very common in a damaged board.

    With the hot air gun you can melt the connector, overheat the pcb, and in some case also can overheat some very sophisticated icís who didnít like much heat. Sometime itís possible to transfer more heat to sophisticated icís what the icís canít handle through the ground traces too, which can damage the ic, even they are not near where you blow the how airÖ

    Here is what I prefer for everybody to overcome all this problems and end the job in a short time.

    I will suggest all the time, when you deal with a pcb where are SMD parts and you have to make some precise and complicated repair, to use the so called ďPre-heaterĒ, check on the Net where to buy one or you can also make one. You can also prepare the board in a pcb vise and preheat the pcb with your hot air gun and then make your soldering but quickly. I soldered also the pins by preheated pcb until this repairing. Donít overheat the pcb, just pre-heat. The temp of the pcb should be maybe around 100-150C.

    Use always a pcb vise when you deal with SMD soldering. If you put your pcb to a desk, it could drain down the temperature from your pcb and your soldering work can be hard. The desk, bench whatever under the pcb can act as a heat sink plate. Never forget to use liquid soldering flux or flux pen! This will come very handy to make nice and clean soldering.


    The pcb was sent back to the customer and after he put it back to the phone he sent me a message does the phone is actually charging. The board is repaired. Mission successfully completed!

    The focus in this article was actually not about a simple repairing, the soldering of a bad join, but more on the technique I use, which is I assume on a proper way. The meaning of this article was to transfer some experience what I collected and the price I ďpaidĒ for the last 20 years, and to share my technique for the future generations who are at the beginning.

    I hope you enjoyed this tutorial and will save lot of repair time.

    This article was prepared for you by Christian Robert Adzic from Novi Knezevac-Serbia.
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